🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning venues. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.